If you are tired of the hustle and bustle of big cities and are looking for a peaceful and charming destination, then Iwaki in Fukushima Prefecture is definitely worth a visit. This small town not only boasts hot springs that are as old as Arima Onsen and Dogo Onsen, but also features beautiful coastlines, a relaxed fish market, and lively neighborhoods. In this article, I will explore the Yumoto Onsen town in Iwaki, the cycling experience in Onahama, and the leisurely time in the city, allowing you to experience the blend of nature and culture.
Departing from Ueno to Iwaki
On the fifth day of my journey, I chose a relatively lesser-known destination—Iwaki (いわき) in Fukushima Prefecture. Alongside Arima Onsen and Dogo Onsen, it is considered one of the three oldest hot springs in Japan, but compared to the other two, Iwaki feels more peaceful and quiet, yet it has its own unique charm.
Departing from Ueno Station, it takes about 2 hours to reach Iwaki by limited express train. The limited express trains are not very frequent, so be sure to check the timetable before your trip to avoid missing the train. After arriving at Iwaki-Yumoto Station, my first impression was that the station was beautifully decorated and very modern.
First Exploration of Yumoto Onsen Town
Since it was not yet check-in time at the hotel, I decided to take a walk around the town first. Although the streets of Yumoto Onsen town were not very crowded, they were filled with the atmosphere of hot springs. There are many foot baths along the streets, so I recommend taking a stroll and experiencing the local hot spring culture. Additionally, there are some interesting bronze statues near Yumoto Station, seemingly from fairy tales, adding a touch of cuteness to the town.
During my stay in Iwaki, I stayed at Koito Ryokan for the first two days. For a detailed review, you can refer to this article.
At night, there weren’t many restaurant options open nearby, so I chose a place that specialized in fish dishes. The food was fresh and delicious, and there were quite a few locals dining there as well.
Cycling in Onahama: Coastline and Fish Market
The itinerary for the second day was cycling in Onahama, enjoying the scenery along the coastline. The recommended route is to take the train from Yumoto Station to Izumi Station, then transfer to a bus to the Onahama Fish Market. However, since the bus service is infrequent, I chose to walk instead, which took about 40 minutes. Along the way, I passed by a uniquely shaped egg-shaped shop that wasn’t open yet, but there was already a line forming outside. Out of curiosity, I joined the queue to see what was so special. The shop sold fresh eggs from different regions and various egg-based products, such as French cakes, egg rolls, and other desserts. As a dessert lover, I bought a few items to try, but I forgot to take photos, which I regretted later.
As I continued walking, there wasn’t much special scenery along the roadside, mostly just residential houses and factories.
After walking for 40 minutes, I finally arrived at the Onahama Fish Market, ‘Lalamew.’ Here, there are not only restaurants and a fish market but also electric bicycle rental services, which cost 2,200 yen for a day and need to be returned by 4 PM. After renting a bike, I started cycling along the Nanahama Kaido.
The most captivating part of the scenery along Nanahama Kaido was the stretches of sandy beaches, with fine sand and pleasant views. Besides the beaches, I also passed by several torii gates and a bustling fishing port. The stone steps at the fishing port are an excellent spot, whether you’re gazing at the rolling waves or waiting for a fish to bite, it’s a relaxing experience. On the way back, I passed by a lighthouse and coincidentally saw a couple taking wedding photos there. The lighthouse, set against the sea and sky, created a picturesque scene that left a deep impression.
Aside from the scenery, I think cycling in Japan is a joy because drivers are very considerate. When cycling on the roadside, most drivers will quietly move aside, making it a very comfortable experience. Additionally, there are plenty of vending machines along the way, even in more remote areas, making it easy to grab a drink. There are also bottle recycling bins, so you don’t have to carry empty bottles around.
Around 3 PM, I returned to the fish market to return the bike. Even though I was riding an electric-assisted bicycle, I still expended quite a bit of energy. There are many shops in the fish market selling sashimi dishes, and one shop had an exaggerated advertisement, using terms like ‘ultimate battle,’ ‘impregnable,’ and ‘unrivaled under heaven’ to describe the portions of their tuna. It was indeed very enticing. I ordered a bowl of sashimi rice for 2,000 yen, which was very filling and delicious.
After diner, I noticed that there was an aquarium across the street, but due to time constraints, I didn’t go in. There are also some sightseeing boats on the water, so those interested can look into them.
A Relaxing Day in Iwaki City
On the third morning, I took a walk around the hotel. There was a shrine next to the hotel, which wasn’t particularly special, but the steam vents for the hot springs were visible everywhere on the streets, indicating that this is a hot spring area.
Today, I decided to find a spot in the city center to sit down and plan my next steps. The streets of Iwaki didn’t have many people or shops open, but as a second or third-tier city, it still has all the necessary facilities, such as large chain hotels, a sports stadium, and the Net Cafe Kaikatsu Club and Sushiro that I visited. It’s a city with a strong sense of everyday life, and perhaps because most people were out working, the streets seemed quite quiet.
With Christmas approaching, there are some simple Christmas lights near the station, adding a touch of holiday atmosphere to the small town.
Today, I stayed at Kotakiya, next to Koito Ryokan. I highly recommend the renovated Japanese-Western style rooms here. For a detailed review, you can refer to this article.
Conclusion
Iwaki is a charming, off-the-beaten-path destination with peaceful hot springs, beautiful coastlines, and lively neighborhoods. Although my time was limited and I didn’t get to visit many attractions, if you’re interested in this place, I recommend staying near Yumoto Station, as there are many great hot spring ryokans there, and it’s conveniently located for exploring different parts of the city. I’m sure you’ll discover more hidden gems and enjoy a unique and relaxing journey here!
Related Links
- Iwaki Yumoto Station Timetable: Check the timetable for the limited express trains from Ueno Station to Iwaki to avoid missing your train.
- Onahama Fish Market Lalamew: A well-known fish market in Onahama, offering fresh sashimi and electric bicycle rental services
- Iwaki Onsen Official Guide: The official website of Iwaki Onsen, providing information on hot spring inns, foot baths, and more
- Iwaki Tourist Information: The official tourism website for Iwaki City, covering popular local attractions, events, accommodation, and food recommendations, helping you fully plan your Iwaki trip.
